Category: Casual

A Betty Dress For Every Occasion

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Vintage dresses, with their timeless design and classic charm, are always on my radar for potential projects. In recent years, there have been numerous independent sewing pattern companies that have sprouted forth with vintage-inspired designs. One of the earliest pioneers of this specialized category is Sew Over It Patterns, based in the UK.
While I have been an admirer of the pattern company for years, I had never bought one of their patterns. However, this changed when I took the plunge and purchased their iconic Betty dress (and additional Add-On Pack) while it was on sale.

Sew Over It Betty Dress

Inspired by the early 1960’s and the TV series, “Mad Men”, the Betty dress was right up my alley: the stately bateau neckline, fitted bodice, and a full circle skirt made for twirling on the dance floor. I was ready to sew !
Coinciding with my new project was a series of videos produced by the team at Sew Over It, showcasing the fitting steps and how versatile the simple dress could be.

Watching the videos, along with reading several blog posts and sewing a plethora of mock-ups, helped me achieve a near perfect fit on a bodice block that was far from my measurements and bone structure. My first dress was made out of a stretch cotton sateen bottomweight in a vibrant floral print. Its first public appearance was at the Florida State P.E.O. Convention during the Friday night social and helped me to feel like a butterfly, flitting around the dance floor in that voluminous skirt.

Cheers !

With the success of my first Betty dress, I wanted to make another one, but this time, modify the neckline using the Add-On Pack. I opted for the V-neck version.

A wild foliage print on a cotton/polyester stretch shirting made for a delightful summer dress, especially when paired with a linen button down shirt as a cool topper.

Sew Over It Betty Dress (V-neck, sleeveless) styled with Pattern Emporium’s All In Shirt

There were now two Betty dresses in my closet, but I still craved more. It was time for a solid frock (and a fancy one, too), I thought. A fall wedding on my calendar was just the excuse I needed to make my desired design.

With the wedding being a semi-formal affair, I extended the skirt to a midi length and used the scoop neck template from the Add-On Pack. Can you guess where I spent most of the evening ?!

As you can tell, the Betty dress easily transitions from a casual daytime look to chic evening attire. And, if you sew like I do, it could become a versatile closet staple and your next sewing addiction.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

The Look For Less: J. McLaughlin

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Sheath dresses have never been a go-to garment choice for me due to their unflattering appearance on my non-rectangular figure. Despite being a misfit for my natural shape, I have always envied the look of a classic sheath style. Especially stunning are the Lilly Pulitzer dresses in their tropical prints and cool, neon hues.

Lilly Pulitzer

In a past issue of Julie’s Picks, a certain collection of fabrics caught my eye. It was titled, “Winter In Palm Beach”. Amid the blue-toned fabrics was a NY Designer swatch that made me believe it was once used for a signature Lilly dress. Curious, I emailed Fabric Mart and inquired about my hunch. As it so happened, the fabric wasn’t Lilly Pulitzer; it was J. McLaughlin.

When I found an image online of a dress made out of the exact fabric I had purchased from the swatch club, I was stunned.

J. McLaughlin Carly Dress in Mini Scribe

More shocking was the price. A similar style dress in the same Catalina Cloth™ as my own deadstock yardage ran upwards of $200. Decidedly, I made it my mission to create the look for less.

With the success of my Santa dress, I knew the Tessa Sheath pattern would be a perfect fit in its full length for my attempt at the upscale knockoff.

Did I make adjustments to the pattern ? Yes. In addition to lengthening the pattern by an inch, I experimented by blending sizes at the hips, but didn’t like the results. Rather, I graded out from the hip to include an extra 1″ seam allowance to the hem and sewed the prescribed 3/8″ seam allowance. This worked beautifully !

I also learned how to add fisheye darts to the back of the dress to bypass the painfully tedious process of cutting and splicing the pattern to make my mandatory swayback adjustment. Going forward, I intend to employ this method when making garments as it took away the hassle of back pattern alterations and gave me better-than-anticipated results.

And that perfectly notched neckline ? I followed the instructions from an article online and watched a video about how to mark and sew the notch all together with the facing. But the real secret was PerfectFuse Light interfacing used on the front and back facing pieces and decreasing my stitch length to just 1.2mm at the bottom point of the notch.

The deadstock J. McLaughlin fabric I purchased was under $10 a yard and I used less than two yards for the entire dress. So, for less than a tenth of the price of a store-bought designer dress, I had my very own luxury piece at a fraction of the cost. Plus, the fun I had while recreating this design and the inner glee I felt in revealing its sophisticated origins gave me a feeling of utmost delight.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Mexican Folkwear Embroidery

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Handmade garments are revered for their artisanal craftsmanship, intricacy, and devotion of time. While I’ve always admired the work of embroiderers and weavers, I never thought of myself as someone who could accomplish the same level of quality as these masters. However, that didn’t stop me from trying ! In one of the monthly newsletter e-mails from Folkwear Patterns, I noticed an advertisement for an online embroidery class featuring their 142 Old Mexico Dress.

142 Old Mexico Dress / Folkwear Patterns

That blue cotton dress with its bright pops of colorful embroidery had me salivating ! But I know my limits and decided not to let my spirited ambition take hold of my sewing caprices. Instead, I settled for the shorter blouse length, which was equally as beguiling.

Sarah Pedlow of ThreadWritten presented a detailed Zoom class filled with the history of Mexican embroidery and a guide to stitching the charming floral and foliage patterns. I found her calm nature relaxing and came away feeling confident that I could stitch like a seasoned professional. Although it took me almost a year to finish the project, I was proud of my feat.

The front and back of the yoke piece before being attached to the bodice

And here is the finished garment…

Opie can never be without the spotlight

There was a little bit of puckering (especially on the back because it was my “practice” side), which can be chalked up to inexperience.

Wearing this blouse has been as delightful as was the stitching itself. In fact, I enjoyed the “slow sew” embroidery process so much that I signed up for another Folkwear/ThreadWritten collaboration: Ukrainian embroidery featuring the 116 Shirts of Russia & Ukraine pattern. Now that will be fun !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Pretty in Pink For “Barbie”

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Typically, I don’t dress up for movies. However, after accepting the invitation to go see the newest “Barbie” movie with a friend, I found myself creatively stimulated by an inundating wave of online images, ranging from 1950’s style dresses to more ostentatious disco getups in the prettiest shades of pink, my favorite color. Awash with the idea of participating in a cultural phenomenon, I gave into temptation.

Margot Robbie in “Barbie” ─ Warner Brothers

It would be hypocrisy to say that I liked the movie. I absolutely loathed it ! On several occasions, I felt like walking out, but since I had paid to see the entire film, I stayed. Even the costumes were a bit of a letdown, not providing enough of a counterbalance to the cognizance that my mind was being both assaulted and liquified.
But enough of that ─ let’s move on to the clothes !

Part of what rendered my decision to dress up for the movie so effortless was the fact that I already had the fabric I needed on hand. Using an adorable pink and white stripe seersucker that had been given to me by a friend, I was in good shape to create something special ─ thank you, Miss Cindy ! One of my go-to pattern sites, Sewist.com, helped me design a 50’s inspired dress with a scoop neckline and six gore circle skirt.

After three separate muslin mock-ups, I felt the pattern had been suitably adjusted for style and comfort. Notably, I lowered the waistline seam over an inch, moved the straps inward so they wouldn’t fall off my shoulders, created a scoop neckline for the back, and adjusted the bust darts for a more pleasing angle. A fluffy petticoat and a nude pair of pumps bought off eBay completed my impromptu Barbie look.

Jewelry played a starring role in shadowing the iconic persona; I employed a mix of both real and costume pieces.

Have you ever had the back armholes gape on your sleeveless tops ? It could be that your shoulder blades are prominent, like mine. Adding a small dart at the back shoulder straps magically removed those pesky openings.

Despite the glitters and charms of my attire, Opie was not impressed.

While it was fun to dress up for a movie, I don’t think it will become a habit of mine. Opera is my passion and its intellect, complexity, and sophistication suit my norms and standards far more than the inane cinematographic “Barbie”. But at least I got a pretty dress out of it !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Playing the Peasant for Don Giovanni

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I have a confession to make. Mozart puts me in a somnolent mood. Although I am quickly made to feel like an operatic pariah at my admission, Mozart has never riled my blood the way other composers do. But that didn’t stop me from seeing Don Giovanni, one of my four “must-see” Mozart operas.

A scene from Don Giovanni / Metropolitan Opera

As the Italianized tale of Don Juan, Don Giovanni is full of drama, but with a sardonic sense of humor, which adds levity to the dark subject matter. Included among the nearly flawless cast was one of my favorite baritones, Peter Mattei, whose velvety voice gave my ears a ticklish delight. Who would have guessed that the overtures of a serial rapist and murderer could be pure bliss ?!

Peter Mattei (center) as Don Giovanni / Metropolitan Opera

While the talents of the singers, orchestra, and conductor shone, the stage director’s did not. Lately, theatrical directors have been attempting to modernize classic productions with stripped down, avant-garde adaptions. Sometimes they’re brilliant (i.e. Agrippina), but other times they feel contrived, nonsensical, or are downright vulgar. With Ivo van Hove’s new, contemporary production of Don Giovanni, I was left with feelings of boredom. A dusty, gray stage is only appealing for a New York minute and the street style “costumes” were devoid of any visual excitement. Yawn !

A scene from Don Giovanni / Metropolitan Opera

My persuasions about modern productions being stated, there is a perk to designing clothes to wear to a present-set opera. When costumes look “off the rack” it opens up possibilities to create ready-to-wear garments that can be worn even after my outings to the theater. Thinking of the three ladies of Don Giovanni (Donna Anna, Donna Elvira, and Zerlina) and their three distinct social classes (aristocracy, bourgeoisie, and peasantry), I knew which gal would be my muse.

The spunky, unpretentious Zerlina has always been my favorite of the trio and her duet with Don Giovanni is an anticipated moment. As a modern iteration, I envisioned Zerlina as a free-spirited flower child who could unmistakably be seen attending an outdoor music festival. Seemingly, the costume designer for the production agreed.

Peter Mattei as Don Giovanni and Ying Fang as Zerlina / Metropolitan Opera

A simple, shaped sundress with buttons down the front was my projected look. Seeking out various patterns led me to Style Arc’s Ariana dress.

Ariana Dress from Style Arc

In the past, I haven’t had great success with Style Arc (their patterns tend to not fit me well) and this endeavour proved no different. However, after sewing a mock-up of the bodice and making a few tweaks, I was able to achieve a better fit.

What textile better suits a hippie than linen ?! An earthy green felt appropriate and Fabrics-Store.com’s Dried Herb medium weight linen was just the ticket for my bohemian bride.

Dried Herb mid-weight linen from Fabrics-Store.com

Accessorized with a lace trimmed shawl and macramé purse, I played the peasant with glee.

An interesting detail of the Ariana dress was the shirred back panel, both stylish and functional.

Patch pockets were also a neat touch.

While delicate jewelry and strappy platform wedges kept the look lowkey, tiny braids in my hair played into the bohemian vibe.

And just as important as the natural fiber of the dress were the wooden flower buttons bought off Etsy. Aren’t they cute ?

The wrinkles of linen can be the bane of a fussy fashionista. But to the nonchalant peasant, they represent the uninhibited simple pleasures of life. Such was the scene of frolicking wedding guests as Zerlina made her entrance on stage, waking me from a light, Mozartian doze.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Cast and Credits

Don Giovanni ─ Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1787)
Live in HD air date: May 20, 2023

Cast:
Don Giovanni ─ Peter Mattei
Donna Anna ─ Frederica Lombardi
Donna Elvira ─ Ana María Martínez
Zerlina ─ Ying Fang
Don Ottavio ─ Ben Bliss
Leporello ─ Adam Plachetka
Masetto ─ Alfred Walker
Commendatore ─ Alexander Tsymbalyuk

Credits:
Conductor ─ Nathalie Stutzmann
Production ─ Ivo van Hove
Set and Lighting Designer ─ Jan Versweyveld
Costume Designer ─ An D’Huys
Projection Designer ─ Christopher Ash
Choreographer ─ Sara Erde
Live in HD Director ─ Gary Halvorson
Host ─ Erin Morely

Fringed Friends in Pamela’s Patterns

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Scrolling through my daily e-mail from Fabric Mart Fabrics, I spotted something that grabbed my attention in addition to the day’s latest sales. A new class offering had been posted for Fringy Bias Skirts with Pamela Leggett using her favorite bias skirt pattern. So chic, so bohemian, so… unique ! I knew I had to sign up for the virtual class.

As per Pamela’s suggestion, the skirt was best suited for a softer linen fabric so that the strips of linen bias would “bloom” when washed. However, I had a resolution to use up some of my unfathomable fabric stash and unearthed a fawn colored linen, which I bought from a “Julie’s Picks” swatch mailer some years prior. It was crisp ─ not ideal ─ but it would have to work. And since my yardage was inadequate for the full length skirt, I was rendered one solution: to make the knee length version.

Soon before the first class session, my friend, Chris, had sent me an e-mail with an outrageously priced Nieman Marcus skirt that was fashionable, but beyond the point of reason to even consider making a purchase. “Who would pay that for a skirt ?!” she wailed. At that moment, I showed her the class example that I was going to make and she was hooked. Intuitively, Chris selected a soft linen/rayon blend in a bright navy for her midi length skirt. Her choice of fabric was perfect; after two washes, the blended material far “outfringed” mine that had been washed and dried close to 10 times. Mawhh-velous !

Custom fitted in our fringy bias skirts, we had fun during a photo shoot at Chris’s elegant home.

Interestingly, Pamela revealed during the first session of class that she got the idea for the fringed skirt from an old Soft Surroundings catalog and wanted to make a knock-off version for herself. I laughed as I had done the same procedure when I attempted to recreate a Soft Surroundings gown for one of the Met concerts.

My Soft Surroundings Knock-off

The Fringy Bias Skirts episode was a win-win-win: Chris didn’t have to cancel her Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra subscription to pay for the skirt, I gained a new client, and we both ended up with two stylish and flattering skirts ! Thank you, Pamela !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

“The Sound of Music” Easter Dress

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From the time I was a little girl, I have always loved “The Sound of Music.” Remembering my original encounter with the classic film in the first grade classroom conjures up the rapt attention I experienced as a wide-eyed seven-year-old. Understandably, there was a lot to adore─ the infectious sing-a-long tunes, the thrilling ending, those clever nuns…
Every year, I would catch the movie on TV during Easter. Once, while watching the movie on the aforementioned holiday, I had decided that I would eat my entire chocolate and jelly bean-filled Easter basket since I was aiming to start a healthy diet the next day and didn’t want the temptation of sugary confections. (Never again !!)
While the overdose of Almond Joys may have given me a stupendous stomachache, I can’t recall a single time where “The Sound of Music” didn’t sit well with my appetite.

“The Sound of Music” movie poster (1965)

Maria’s ability to make clothes out of curtains impressed and inspired me, long before I could sew myself. And so it should come as no surprise that the costumes in the movie were a highlight for me. From Liesl’s floaty chiffon frock to Baroness Schraeder’s luxe gold evening gown, the clothes only added to the film’s accolades.

Apparently, I’m not the only one who harbors an affinity for the movie’s costumes. For years, I have been an admirer of Katrina Holte’s Edelweiss Patterns. And yet, I had never sewn one of her “Sound of Music” replica patterns… until now ! While I was greatly torn between several options, I choose Maria’s Gazebo Dress as my first attempt at classic cinema fashion.

Julie Andrews in “The Sound of Music”

With its delicate chiffon overlay and pastel color, I imagined it as an ideal Easter dress. But out of which color to make it…? I always viewed the film dress as an aqua baby blue, but discovered upon research that it’s not blue; it’s green ! According to the auction site that sold the frock in 2012, the listing is described in part as a “Green dress with floral pattern, with butterfly sleeves and full skirt. Smocked at neck and waist, lined in light green silk, hook and eye and snap closure at back.” Who would have thought ?! Green it is !

I ignored the tone-on-tone floral pattern on the dress since I was not equipped (neither with time nor mental stamina) to begin another fabric painting project so soon after Zerbinetta’s harlequin. The monochromatic seafoam was enough for a pretty pastel Easter dress.

Details matter on solid dresses. The pattern called for honeycomb smocking, a stitch which I had never heard of nor attempted, but found it to be a fun and easy design addition. So much so, that my mind is now whirring over the decorative possibilities for using the stitch in the future.

Honeycomb smocking at the neckline

“The Sound of Music,” sewing, and Easter… “These are a few of my favorite things.”

Happy Easter !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

This post is dedicated to Ian, whose role model for being a doting uncle to his nieces and nephews is Uncle Max from “The Sound of Music.”

Striped Seersucker Shirtdress

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It may be apparent by now that I am an alliteration advocate. As much as I try to suppress my affection, there’s just something about starting a succession of words with the same alphabetical letter that tickles my fancy. Inadvertently, my new summer creation was an alliterative delight: a striped seersucker shirtdress !

Here’s how it began…

McCall’s 6891 Shirtdress

Originally purchasing this pattern to sew for a new Met production of Die Zauberflöte (which was subsequently canceled), it sat shelved, along with the yards of white chambray linen I bought for the project, without a hope except for the fact that I did very much like the pattern.

Nadine Sierra in Die Zauberflöte (Opéra National de Paris)

The idea of sewing a shirtdress never strayed too far from my mind, but it wasn’t until an issue of “Julie’s Picks” swatch club popped in the mail that the romanticized idea rose to the forefront as a planned reality. Could it have been a coincidence that the pattern suggestion for a dandy red stripe cream seersucker be none other than the McCall’s (reprinted as Butterick) shirtdress pattern I bought for the scrapped Met project ? Whether you believe in coincidences or not, I had my sign: I was making the dress !

“Julie’s Picks” July 2021 issue, Page 3

With this pattern being a Palmer and Pletsch design with extensive fitting instructions, I spent a good week perfecting the fit with the adjustment lines on the pattern tissue. My only substantial tweak was taking out ½ inch at the shoulder blade level to eliminate a gaping armhole in the back.

I wish there would have been more fitting tips besides the most common ones because I then needed to alter the sleeve pieces to compensate for the reduced armhole length. The attempt was in vain. As a result, my sleeve cap was gathered more than I had intentioned…

But, no matter !

The dress (a combination of Views C and D) turned out in tip top fashion and gave me the feel of a 1950’s waitress/housewife. I especially love the red “jelly” buttons that appear like hard candies on the peppermint stripe cotton.

I loved nearly everything about this dress: the American made fabric, the fit, the retro vibe, the color scheme… the list goes on. And while it wasn’t imperative that its descriptors start with the same letter, the fact that my striped seersucker shirtdress was an alliterative creation was just the icing on the cake.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Mathilde Wrap Dress: Two Ways

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Made famous by Diane von Fürstenberg in the 1970’s, the wrap dress has always been a favorite of mine for its balance of polished professionalism and flattering femininity. Whether for a meeting or a casual luncheon with friends, the possibilities for wearing the classic silhouette are almost endless.
Many patterns exist on the web. However, when I came across the Untitled Thoughts Mathilde Wrap Dress sewing pattern, I felt a greater appeal and so ventured to sew my first real wrap dress.

Untitled Thoughts Mathilde Wrap Dress

The sewing was easy; the pattern was full of well-explained instructions and tips. Would the fabric fare the same ? When I first beheld the demure swatch of garden rose double brushed poly knit in one of my issues of Julie’s Picks swatch club, I barely noticed it. It was, after all, a “hot” polyester. But when my mother insisted that the color palate was a terrific match for my complexion, how was I to pass it up ? Mother knows best !

And she was right ! Despite my warranted hesitations about wearing polyester in the sweltering Florida heat and humidity, the fabric was a breeze to sew and wasn’t that warm, especially with the flutter sleeve option.

I call this my “Compliments Dress” since every time I wear it out, at least one person tells me how much they like its overall look. Perfectly paired with pearls and a blush of the cheek, I felt like a paragon of femininity. And that is a very good way to feel.

But I wasn’t done !

To me, it is important for a wrap dress to feature svelte ¾ length sleeves. Since my Compliments Dress was geared for spring and summer weather, I kept the sleeves short and free. I had other plans for the longer sleeve…

One of the most valuable aspects of the Mathilde Wrap Dress is that it comes in three different styles, including a very chic peplum top. With yet another fabric from an issue of the swatch club (this time a nautical rayon knit !), I envisioned a preppy “boat dock” look that would be well suited to an elegant dinner followed by an evening walk along the beach… or for sitting out by the pool !

The description of the pattern confides that it feels like “secret pajamas.” After wearing each style, I can testify to the truth of that statement.
A flattering design, a beginner’s level of sewing, and comfort for days─ what could be better ? The Mathilde Wrap is a winner !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha


Wagnerians in Concert

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Over the years, I have found that the more I am exposed to Wagner, the more I love it. It’s complex, lush, and completely absorbing if given the right circumstances. Thankfully, I’m not the only one who harbors a cultish hankering for Wagnerian music. And so, off to Chris’s we go for another Met Stars Live in Concert series !

Broadcast live from the Hessisches Staatstheater in Wiesbaden, Germany, the grand foyer proved to be one of the most gorgeous settings for a concert with the lighting shifting to fit the mood of each song. Although the program was not entirely Wagnerian (a thimbleful of R. Strauss was thrown into the mix), the quartet of Elza van den Heever, Christine Goerke, Andreas Schager, and Michael Volle made the most of the arias and duets… and the staircases ! There was a choreographed sequence of how the singers would enter and exit to avoid cutting into the next performance all while capitalizing on the thespian potential of the Neo-Baroque architecture.

The Hessisches Staatstheater in Wiesbaden, Germany

The greatest (and most accurate) of these tableaux came during the penultimate number with Elza van den Heever and Christine Goerke acting out the duet from Act II of Lohengrin, complete with balcony betrayal. Juicy !

The Cuisine

Our afterparty fare was a European hodgepodge of Gruyère and Bleu, open faced canapés, sauerkraut salad (similar to Korean kimchi), Riesling, and… banana bread. Well, it was almost European.

The recipe for the banana bread is an adapted version of Cookie and Kate’s Whole Wheat Banana Bread with maple syrup as the sweetener (and butter in place of the oil). For years it has been one of my go-to staples for a “No White Flour, No White Sugar” treat. Thanks, Kate !

The Clothes

In thinking of a Wagnerian-inspired outfit, several elements came to mind:
1) Medieval gowns with long, wide sleeves
2) Knights in chainmail
3) Leather, lots of leather

Each of these characteristics can usually be observed during a typical Wagnerian opera. However, I wanted to create a more modern look and sought to avoid the following fashion pitfalls insomuch as looking like a:
1) Gothic punk
2) Biker
3) Cosplayer

A challenge, indeed. Leaving the angel sleeves behind, the rest of my outfit gave me just the right combination of Wagnerian features with a completely modern appeal.

The outfit and the concert were a terrific celebration and reminder of why I enjoy Wagner so much: drama and beauty intertwined as the complete work of art.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

How exactly did I create my sequin tunic ? The answers can be found in my accompanying tutorial post: https://costumeclosetcouture.com/2021/05/29/sequin-mail-drafting-a-cowl-neck-chainmail-tunic/

Cast and Credits

Wagnerians in Concert
Hessisches Staatstheater
Wiesbaden, Germany
Live broadcast date: May 8, 2021
(Date seen: May 20, 2021)

Elza van den Heever ─ soprano
Christine Goerke ─ soprano
Andreas Schager ─ tenor
Michael Volle ─ bass-baritone
Craig Terry ─ piano