Vintage dresses, with their timeless design and classic charm, are always on my radar for potential projects. In recent years, there have been numerous independent sewing pattern companies that have sprouted forth with vintage-inspired designs. One of the earliest pioneers of this specialized category is Sew Over It Patterns, based in the UK. While I have been an admirer of the pattern company for years, I had never bought one of their patterns. However, this changed when I took the plunge and purchased their iconic Betty dress (and additional Add-On Pack) while it was on sale.
Sew Over It Betty Dress
Inspired by the early 1960’s and the TV series, “Mad Men”, the Betty dress was right up my alley: the stately bateau neckline, fitted bodice, and a full circle skirt made for twirling on the dance floor. I was ready to sew ! Coinciding with my new project was a series of videos produced by the team at Sew Over It, showcasing the fitting steps and how versatile the simple dress could be.
Watching the videos, along with reading several blog posts and sewing a plethora of mock-ups, helped me achieve a near perfect fit on a bodice block that was far from my measurements and bone structure. My first dress was made out of a stretch cotton sateen bottomweight in a vibrant floral print. Its first public appearance was at the Florida State P.E.O. Convention during the Friday night social and helped me to feel like a butterfly, flitting around the dance floor in that voluminous skirt.
Cheers !
With the success of my first Betty dress, I wanted to make another one, but this time, modify the neckline using the Add-On Pack. I opted for the V-neck version.
A wild foliage print on a cotton/polyester stretch shirting made for a delightful summer dress, especially when paired with a linen button down shirt as a cool topper.
Sew Over It Betty Dress (V-neck, sleeveless) styled with Pattern Emporium’s All In Shirt
There were now two Betty dresses in my closet, but I still craved more. It was time for a solid frock (and a fancy one, too), I thought. A fall wedding on my calendar was just the excuse I needed to make my desired design.
With the wedding being a semi-formal affair, I extended the skirt to a midi length and used the scoop neck template from the Add-On Pack. Can you guess where I spent most of the evening ?!
As you can tell, the Betty dress easily transitions from a casual daytime look to chic evening attire. And, if you sew like I do, it could become a versatile closet staple and your next sewing addiction.
Sheath dresses have never been a go-to garment choice for me due to their unflattering appearance on my non-rectangular figure. Despite being a misfit for my natural shape, I have always envied the look of a classic sheath style. Especially stunning are the Lilly Pulitzer dresses in their tropical prints and cool, neon hues.
Lilly Pulitzer
In a past issue of Julie’s Picks, a certain collection of fabrics caught my eye. It was titled, “Winter In Palm Beach”. Amid the blue-toned fabrics was a NY Designer swatch that made me believe it was once used for a signature Lilly dress. Curious, I emailed Fabric Mart and inquired about my hunch. As it so happened, the fabric wasn’t Lilly Pulitzer; it was J. McLaughlin.
When I found an image online of a dress made out of the exact fabric I had purchased from the swatch club, I was stunned.
J. McLaughlin Carly Dress in Mini Scribe
More shocking was the price. A similar style dress in the same Catalina Cloth™ as my own deadstock yardage ran upwards of $200. Decidedly, I made it my mission to create the look for less.
With the success of my Santa dress, I knew the Tessa Sheath pattern would be a perfect fit in its full length for my attempt at the upscale knockoff.
Did I make adjustments to the pattern ?Yes. In addition to lengthening the pattern by an inch, I experimented by blending sizes at the hips, but didn’t like the results. Rather, I graded out from the hip to include an extra 1″ seam allowance to the hem and sewed the prescribed 3/8″ seam allowance. This worked beautifully !
I also learned how to add fisheye darts to the back of the dress to bypass the painfully tedious process of cutting and splicing the pattern to make my mandatory swayback adjustment. Going forward, I intend to employ this method when making garments as it took away the hassle of back pattern alterations and gave me better-than-anticipated results.
And that perfectly notched neckline ? I followed the instructions from an article online and watched a video about how to mark and sew the notch all together with the facing. But the real secret was PerfectFuse Light interfacing used on the front and back facing pieces and decreasing my stitch length to just 1.2mm at the bottom point of the notch.
The deadstock J. McLaughlin fabric I purchased was under $10 a yard and I used less than two yards for the entire dress. So, for less than a tenth of the price of a store-bought designer dress, I had my very own luxury piece at a fraction of the cost. Plus, the fun I had while recreating this design and the inner glee I felt in revealing its sophisticated origins gave me a feeling of utmost delight.
The evening of February 9, 2024 was one I couldn’t forget. My first experience at Night to Shine made an impact so great that I almost liken the feeling to that of my first opera outing. Before the DJ’s equipment could be packed away and the thousands of twinkling lights unstrung, my attentions turned to the following year and that all-important question: What was I going to wear ?
The end of a magical evening ─ Night to Shine 2024
The story of how Jacob and I met is well documented in all its grocery glory. As I considered a myriad of styles for my prom dress, I weighed each option by the measure of Jacob’s outspoken preferences in fashion. He favors the color blue and voices a vehement abhorrence for sequins. Moreover, I didn’t want to overshadow Jacob’s “puteet” stature with a gown of staggering dimensions. Curiously, I was most attracted to the sleek and classic lines of 1930’s style gowns. But it wasn’t until I chanced upon one of Gertie’s monthly Patreon patterns that I was completely sold on the idea.
Gertie modeling the Starlet Gown (Patreon, December 2023)
The Starlet Gown, made out of stretch velvet with no fiddly closures, seemed right up my alley for a fuss-free evening. After mulling it over, I signed up for a monthly subscription to Patreon and downloaded the pattern. The sew-along video that was included with the membership fee offered helpful techniques on how to sew with stretch velvet and finish the lined bodice. Weighting the cowl neckline was essential, and therefore, a quarter was listed in the required notions. As a tribute to Jacob, I sewed in a coin that was minted in 2000, the year my Ilja was born.
I opted for the back modesty panel, not necessarily for the look, but for the functionality. Ultimately, I’m glad I made that choice.
With glam accessories, like rhinestone earrings and long white gloves, I felt like a regal queen. But it was the carnation corsage, slipped over my wrist, that made me feel complete.
The King and I… ready to party !
The crowning of each and every King and Queen kicks off the celebration…
…while walking the red carpet is the highlight for all. The cheers and applause from the “paparazzi” never ceases to bring tears to my eyes.
After months of practicing in the car, we were finally able to sing our karaoke duet, “Don’t Go Breaking My Heart” by Elton John with Kiki Dee. Should we take our act on the road ? Maybe !
Sorting through the various props available, it was time to take our picture at the photo booth. I always remind Jacob to be disciplined in saving and investing his money so he can become a богатый американец (bogatiy amerikanets ─ rich American).
Of course, the first question my mother asked me when I came home at the end of the evening was, “Did you get a picture with Tim Tebow ?!” As it so happens, my mother and I have a standing agreement that I am to call her immediately if Tim Tebow makes an appearance at our local Night to Shine. So far, no phone call has been made. But there’s always next year !
Jacob loves to dance…
…and so do I.
Since God answered my prayer for a friend from Russia in the form of Jacob, I have become increasingly active in the special needs community, which has been an unexpected delight in my life. Sharing the love of Christ with those who need it most brings me a radiant joy, especially in the role of a Buddy to my own very special King.
And now… what will I wear to Night to Shine 2026 ?
Folkwear Patterns is undisputedly my favorite pattern company. Their designs are well drafted, have just the right amount of ease, and I rarely have to make adjustments to my standard Medium size. Not only are the technical details solid, but the variety of vintage and folk styles make for a cultural experience. My latest foray with Folkwear was with the 233 Glamour Girl pattern, a 1940’s gown in three lengths.
233 Glamour Girl / Folkwear Patterns
Years elapsed before I finally purchased the pattern in May 2022. Another year passed before I actually sewed the pattern because I was waiting to find the perfect fabric for my creation. Just like the sample for the company, I wanted a deep navy blue crepe affixed with a standout lapel accent.
The original ankle length model for Folkwear Patterns
As with most of my dazzling fabric finds, I bought my Glamour Girl fabric from Julie’s Picks swatch club ─ a gorgeous cady stretch suiting that was ideal for my dress. Making up the pattern was easier than I expected, even with the double ruching on the sleeves and the front waist ties at the abdomen.
And the fit was spot on !
I chose to make the “contemporary” mid-calf length (my mother’s favorite) and took careful measures to finish my seams without using the serger for a more vintage approach.
Because I used a stretch material, I bypassed the side zipper altogether, which turned dressing into a matter of slipping the frock over my head.
I also raised the plunging V neck at the front by 1¼ inches since uncomfortable clothes are never in fashion for me. Shoulder pads and clever front pleats set off my grandmother’s pearl pin and other coordinating accessories.
Lauren Bacall, anyone ?
What I love most about this dress is its timeless versatility. Not only did I wear it to a late afternoon classical music concert, but I also donned it for a P.E.O. morning meeting. Both times proved to be in vogue.
At P.E.O., greeting members for the meeting
Next time you’re in the mood for a quality pattern with historical flair and cultural details, give Folkwear Patterns a try ! Your first won’t be your last.
I love pearls the way a bear loves honey. They’re classic, a Southern staple, and compliment almost any outfit. When I came across a particular swatch of stretch poplin shirting, replete with strings of pearls across a pale sky blue background, I knew I had to have some.
My intention with the pearl poplin was to finish my long-awaited “perfect” blouse from the fit and sew virtual class I took in September 2021 with Katrina Walker.
Unfinished projects irk me. Unfortunately, they happen all too often in my life. When I first began working on the “perfect” blouse in 2021, I had cut the pattern pieces out of inky black silk charmeuse. A lack of proper starching resulted in distorted facing pieces and collar points that had already been sewn and clipped before a detrimental flaw was noticed. The mistake was devastating and I relegated the project to File 13. Although my momentum was abated, I reasoned that a sturdier, easier-to-sew fabric (like poplin) would provide a confidence boost, just in case I one day decide to try my hand at a charmeuse blouse again.
My pattern pieces were already altered from when I took the class in 2021, which made for an expedited experience.
And after a relatively quick sew, my blouse was completed with pleasing results.
Fisheye darts at the front and back made for elegant shaping along the midsection…
…and ¾ sleeves added sophisticated flair.
With most store bought shirts, one of my biggest complaints is the pooling of fabric at the small of my back. Applying a swayback and full bottom adjustment on the paper pattern piece gave me a smooth backside. Hooray !
If there was one thing I would change, it would be to double up the pearl buttons down the front since I feel at times that my top button is an inch too low.
Thanks to the lessons of Katrina Walker and a forgiving fabric, I now have the confidence to sew fitted blouses with numerous darts. And the best part is… my pearls match ─ perfectly.
Typically, I don’t dress up for movies. However, after accepting the invitation to go see the newest “Barbie” movie with a friend, I found myself creatively stimulated by an inundating wave of online images, ranging from 1950’s style dresses to more ostentatious disco getups in the prettiest shades of pink, my favorite color. Awash with the idea of participating in a cultural phenomenon, I gave into temptation.
Margot Robbie in “Barbie” ─ Warner Brothers
It would be hypocrisy to say that I liked the movie. I absolutely loathed it ! On several occasions, I felt like walking out, but since I had paid to see the entire film, I stayed. Even the costumes were a bit of a letdown, not providing enough of a counterbalance to the cognizance that my mind was being both assaulted and liquified. But enough of that ─ let’s move on to the clothes !
Part of what rendered my decision to dress up for the movie so effortless was the fact that I already had the fabric I needed on hand. Using an adorable pink and white stripe seersucker that had been given to me by a friend, I was in good shape to create something special ─ thank you, Miss Cindy ! One of my go-to pattern sites, Sewist.com, helped me design a 50’s inspired dress with a scoop neckline and six gore circle skirt.
After three separate muslin mock-ups, I felt the pattern had been suitably adjusted for style and comfort. Notably, I lowered the waistline seam over an inch, moved the straps inward so they wouldn’t fall off my shoulders, created a scoop neckline for the back, and adjusted the bust darts for a more pleasing angle. A fluffy petticoat and a nude pair of pumps bought off eBay completed my impromptu Barbie look.
Jewelry played a starring role in shadowing the iconic persona; I employed a mix of both real and costume pieces.
Have you ever had the back armholes gape on your sleeveless tops ? It could be that your shoulder blades are prominent, like mine. Adding a small dart at the back shoulder straps magically removed those pesky openings.
Despite the glitters and charms of my attire, Opie was not impressed.
While it was fun to dress up for a movie, I don’t think it will become a habit of mine. Opera is my passion and its intellect, complexity, and sophistication suit my norms and standards far more than the inane cinematographic “Barbie”. But at least I got a pretty dress out of it !
Made famous by Diane von Fürstenberg in the 1970’s, the wrap dress has always been a favorite of mine for its balance of polished professionalism and flattering femininity. Whether for a meeting or a casual luncheon with friends, the possibilities for wearing the classic silhouette are almost endless. Many patterns exist on the web. However, when I came across the Untitled Thoughts Mathilde Wrap Dress sewing pattern, I felt a greater appeal and so ventured to sew my first real wrap dress.
Untitled Thoughts Mathilde Wrap Dress
The sewing was easy; the pattern was full of well-explained instructions and tips. Would the fabric fare the same ? When I first beheld the demure swatch of garden rose double brushed poly knit in one of my issues of Julie’s Picks swatch club, I barely noticed it. It was, after all, a “hot” polyester. But when my mother insisted that the color palate was a terrific match for my complexion, how was I to pass it up ? Mother knows best !
And she was right ! Despite my warranted hesitations about wearing polyester in the sweltering Florida heat and humidity, the fabric was a breeze to sew and wasn’t that warm, especially with the flutter sleeve option.
I call this my “Compliments Dress” since every time I wear it out, at least one person tells me how much they like its overall look. Perfectly paired with pearls and a blush of the cheek, I felt like a paragon of femininity. And that is a very good way to feel.
But I wasn’t done !
To me, it is important for a wrap dress to feature svelte ¾ length sleeves. Since my Compliments Dress was geared for spring and summer weather, I kept the sleeves short and free. I had other plans for the longer sleeve…
One of the most valuable aspects of the Mathilde Wrap Dress is that it comes in three different styles, including a very chic peplum top. With yet another fabric from an issue of the swatch club (this time a nautical rayon knit !), I envisioned a preppy “boat dock” look that would be well suited to an elegant dinner followed by an evening walk along the beach… or for sitting out by the pool !
The description of the pattern confides that it feels like “secret pajamas.” After wearing each style, I can testify to the truth of that statement. A flattering design, a beginner’s level of sewing, and comfort for days─ what could be better ? The Mathilde Wrap is a winner !
Over the years, I have found that the more I am exposed to Wagner, the more I love it. It’s complex, lush, and completely absorbing if given the right circumstances. Thankfully, I’m not the only one who harbors a cultish hankering for Wagnerian music. And so, off to Chris’s we go for another Met Stars Live in Concert series !
Broadcast live from the Hessisches Staatstheater in Wiesbaden, Germany, the grand foyer proved to be one of the most gorgeous settings for a concert with the lighting shifting to fit the mood of each song. Although the program was not entirely Wagnerian (a thimbleful of R. Strauss was thrown into the mix), the quartet of Elza van den Heever, Christine Goerke, Andreas Schager, and Michael Volle made the most of the arias and duets… and the staircases ! There was a choreographed sequence of how the singers would enter and exit to avoid cutting into the next performance all while capitalizing on the thespian potential of the Neo-Baroque architecture.
The Hessisches Staatstheater in Wiesbaden, Germany
The greatest (and most accurate) of these tableaux came during the penultimate number with Elza van den Heever and Christine Goerke acting out the duet from Act II of Lohengrin, complete with balcony betrayal. Juicy !
The Cuisine
Our afterparty fare was a European hodgepodge of Gruyère and Bleu, open faced canapés, sauerkraut salad (similar to Korean kimchi), Riesling, and… banana bread. Well, it was almost European.
The recipe for the banana bread is an adapted version of Cookie and Kate’s Whole Wheat Banana Bread with maple syrup as the sweetener (and butter in place of the oil). For years it has been one of my go-to staples for a “No White Flour, No White Sugar” treat. Thanks, Kate !
The Clothes
In thinking of a Wagnerian-inspired outfit, several elements came to mind: 1) Medieval gowns with long, wide sleeves 2) Knights in chainmail 3) Leather, lots of leather
Each of these characteristics can usually be observed during a typical Wagnerian opera. However, I wanted to create a more modern look and sought to avoid the following fashion pitfalls insomuch as looking like a: 1) Gothic punk 2) Biker 3) Cosplayer
A challenge, indeed. Leaving the angel sleeves behind, the rest of my outfit gave me just the right combination of Wagnerian features with a completely modern appeal.
The outfit and the concert were a terrific celebration and reminder of why I enjoy Wagner so much: drama and beauty intertwined as the complete work of art.
Have you ever come across an object that so uncannily embodies the persona of someone you know that you almost have to do a double take ? This is exactly what occurred as I was thumbing through an issue of “Julie’s Picks” swatch club one summer afternoon.
There it was: a royal blue burnout velvet that had me screaming inside my head, “Faith !!!!”
Faith has an affinity for blue (and royal blue in particular) the way I have an alliteration affinity (and am an absolutely ardent advocate about appropriate and ample application !). When I spotted an additional royal purple colorway listed on the page, the wheels in my head began to cycle at rapid RPMs. Matching dresses !
Was I being irrational ? After all, I have never met Faith in person and trying to do a fitting online seemed impossible. But that didn’t matter… it was destiny and as soon as the fabrics became available, I snatched up several yards of each.
Originally, I envisioned this duo of dresses for Christmas, but with no opera outfits to conjure, my schedule was left wide open. Since Faith and I share September birthdays that are 6 days apart, it seemed like an appropriate deadline and perfect birthday present. Birthday dresses, it is !
Now came the tricky part: choosing a pattern style that would suit two completely different figures ! Because of the low cost, I turned to Lekala patterns since I knew that they offered customized PDF patterns based on individual measurements for a bargain. Velvet begs for the opportunity to be draped and ruched so the faux wrap style of #4078 was my top choice. The V-neck and triangular inset promised a slimmer appearance, which is desired by all.
Agreeing to the style and process, Faith sent her measurements and I began to work… but first, a detour. Since the almost-neon purple ITY knit I ordered for the lining of my dress was ill-matched to the deep plum of the purple velvet, I decided to use the ITY knit for a mock-up, which I wore to Jonas Kaufmann’s concert in July.
I know it looks blue, but it’s not !
The mock-up proved two things: 1) the dress needed to be looser in the bust and upper arms, and 2) the hem could be lengthened just a smidge to cover the knee, as per Faith’s request. This was done for the real deal. Taking precautions, I cut out the patterns with extra seam allowances, but sewed at only a ¼” seam. Just a tip: cut your stretch velvets with the right sides facing each other… it’s too slippery the other way !
So was the grand plan pulled off without a hitch ? Yes ! Cutting it close, I mailed Faith her dress just days before her birthday, holding my breath to learn of its fit or misfit. It was a gamble, but I heaved a mighty sigh when I received word of its perfection. Whew !
Faith chose to style her dress casually with leggings and boots and with coordinating accessories. As for me, I had the professional modes in mind and added gold jewelry and stockings to complement a dressed up business look.
This was an accomplishment I will always remember: sewing my first fitted project for someone, virtually. The moment was all the more relished by the satisfactory result and the shared bond of two friends with matching birthday dresses.
“The dynamic husband-and-wife duo of tenor Roberto Alagna and soprano Aleksandra Kurzak give a concert of arias and duets, accompanied by string quintet, from an outdoor terrace in Èze, France, with a spectacular view of the Mediterranean.”
Two for the price of one ? A string quintet ? A château on the French Riviera ? Count me in ! If the description for the third installment of the Met Stars Live in Concert initiative wasn’t appealing already, the set list for Aleksandra Kurzak and Roberto Alagna’s concert was the icing on the cake. Favorites from Puccini and Verdi seamlessly mixed with adorable folk songs from Mexico and Italy, all richly accompanied by the Vienna Morphing Quintet. Below is an abbreviated video of highlights from the concert:
Aside from being a technical feat, the vistas overlooking the pelagic Mediterranean Sea were arresting. Several times during the concert, I found my eyes floating over the floral garlanded railing to espy sleek motor yachts and nearby barrier islands as Aleksandra and Roberto charmed me with their singing and effortless chemistry. Their intuitive camaraderie led to dynamic and touching duets, which also included an overflowing dose of mirth. In what is rapidly becoming the duo’s calling card, the hilarious “love potion” duet from Donizetti’s L’Elisir d’Amore involved a clever prop and crafty English ad libs ─ I was rollicking with laughter watching the two perform !
Aleksandra Kurzak and Roberto Alagna singing “Caro Elisir” from L’Elisir d’Amore in concert / Metropolitan Opera
There were more serious moments as well with Aleksandra singing Desdemona’s “Ave Maria” followed by a melting rendition of the love duet from Otello, in which the darkening sky serendipitously played a role in one of the final lines. Singing “The Pleiades are low in the heavens”, the pair turned to face the azure sky and motioned to the stars just as they were beginning to illuminate. Chills !!!!
Aleksandra Kurzak and Roberto Alagna singing the love duet from Otello in concert
The Cuisine
The concert locale, above all else, provided the best (and most straightforward) watch party theme: Rolling on the Riviera. Provence, with its uniqueness of sights and senses was the central inspiration behind our small gathering at Chris’s home. Each of us chipped in to make the get-together unforgettable. Jayne knew of a terrific French sparkling rosé wine while I was elated to try out Ina Garten’s Provençal Potato Salad, which was chocked full of Provençal ingredients: black olives, capers, haricot verts, cherry tomatoes, scallions, red onion, lots of fresh herbs, flaked tuna, hard cooked eggs, and anchovies. The freshness was equivalent to lounging on a sun-soaked beach chair with the sea mist brushing across your face. In the words of Ina Garten, “How bad can that be ?” The salad is so gorgeous that it was featured as the cover image on the original Barefoot Contessa cookbook from 1999.
The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook and Jayne’s sparkling rosé
I highly recommend the wine and the niçoise-inspired potato salad for an instant summer getaway.
Anne sure knows how to arrange a cheese platter ! Roquefort, Boursin, and Brie, oh my ! And of course, my favorite prosciutto…
Even Chris, our gracious hostess, made blackberry sorbet to be accompanied with chocolate covered French cookies. Bon appétit !
The Clothes
Imagine partaking in a leisurely promenade along one of the coastal towns of the Riviera… what would you wear ? For me, the answer was obvious: beach pajamas !
Made popular in the 1930’s, beach pajamas (or pyjamas) were all the rage on the Riviera where the rich and famous would rendezvous. Women would wear flowy fabrics with grace, oftentimes to dressier occasions spanning into the evening hour. Casual and comfortable, while still oh-so chic, I knew I wanted to sew a set of these beloved beach clothes.
Seeking a two piece style, I contemplated designing my own set until I came across a FREE pattern online from Gertie’s Charm Patterns brand. With a complete sew-a-long tutorial on YouTube showing the details of making the pajamas, the pattern was just right for my needs. With this being my very first “Gertie” pattern, I wasn’t sure what to expect, but found that the pattern was accurately sized with differing cup sizes for an even better fit.
Using a soft rayon challis I bought in June from Julie’s Picks swatch club mailer, I paired it with an equally sumptuous berry-colored material from Fabric Mart’s gorgeous selection of rayon/nylon shimmer satins. Softness and style united as one.
I loved wearing my 1930’s beach pajamas to what transpired as a joyous afternoon in Provence. From the cliffs of Èze to the rolling hills of central Florida, the pleasures of the French Riviera were abundant ─ an uplifting concert, delicious food, and lively conversation… what could be finer ?
Toi, Toi, Toi,
Mary Martha
Cast and Credits:
Met Stars Live in Concert: Aleksandra Kurzak and Roberto Alagna Château de la Chèvre d’Or Èze, France Live broadcast date: August 16, 2020 (Date seen: August 20, 2020)
Aleksandra Kurzak ─ soprano Roberto Alagna ─ tenor
Costume Closet Couture 