A Betty Dress For Every Occasion

Vintage dresses, with their timeless design and classic charm, are always on my radar for potential projects. In recent years, there have been numerous independent sewing pattern companies that have sprouted forth with vintage-inspired designs. One of the earliest pioneers of this specialized category is Sew Over It Patterns, based in the UK.
While I have been an admirer of the pattern company for years, I had never bought one of their patterns. However, this changed when I took the plunge and purchased their iconic Betty dress (and additional Add-On Pack) while it was on sale.

Inspired by the early 1960’s and the TV series, “Mad Men”, the Betty dress was right up my alley: the stately bateau neckline, fitted bodice, and a full circle skirt made for twirling on the dance floor. I was ready to sew !
Coinciding with my new project was a series of videos produced by the team at Sew Over It, showcasing the fitting steps and how versatile the simple dress could be.

Watching the videos, along with reading several blog posts and sewing a plethora of mock-ups, helped me achieve a near perfect fit on a bodice block that was far from my measurements and bone structure. My first dress was made out of a stretch cotton sateen bottomweight in a vibrant floral print. Its first public appearance was at the Florida State P.E.O. Convention during the Friday night social and helped me to feel like a butterfly, flitting around the dance floor in that voluminous skirt.

Cheers !

With the success of my first Betty dress, I wanted to make another one, but this time, modify the neckline using the Add-On Pack. I opted for the V-neck version.

A wild foliage print on a cotton/polyester stretch shirting made for a delightful summer dress, especially when paired with a linen button down shirt as a cool topper.

There were now two Betty dresses in my closet, but I still craved more. It was time for a solid frock (and a fancy one, too), I thought. A fall wedding on my calendar was just the excuse I needed to make my desired design.

With the wedding being a semi-formal affair, I extended the skirt to a midi length and used the scoop neck template from the Add-On Pack. Can you guess where I spent most of the evening ?!

As you can tell, the Betty dress easily transitions from a casual daytime look to chic evening attire. And, if you sew like I do, it could become a versatile closet staple and your next sewing addiction.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

The King and I: Night to Shine 2025

The evening of February 9, 2024 was one I couldn’t forget. My first experience at Night to Shine made an impact so great that I almost liken the feeling to that of my first opera outing. Before the DJ’s equipment could be packed away and the thousands of twinkling lights unstrung, my attentions turned to the following year and that all-important question: What was I going to wear ?

The end of a magical evening ─ Night to Shine 2024

The story of how Jacob and I met is well documented in all its grocery glory. As I considered a myriad of styles for my prom dress, I weighed each option by the measure of Jacob’s outspoken preferences in fashion. He favors the color blue and voices a vehement abhorrence for sequins. Moreover, I didn’t want to overshadow Jacob’s “puteet” stature with a gown of staggering dimensions. Curiously, I was most attracted to the sleek and classic lines of 1930’s style gowns. But it wasn’t until I chanced upon one of Gertie’s monthly Patreon patterns that I was completely sold on the idea.

Gertie modeling the Starlet Gown (Patreon, December 2023)

The Starlet Gown, made out of stretch velvet with no fiddly closures, seemed right up my alley for a fuss-free evening. After mulling it over, I signed up for a monthly subscription to Patreon and downloaded the pattern. The sew-along video that was included with the membership fee offered helpful techniques on how to sew with stretch velvet and finish the lined bodice. Weighting the cowl neckline was essential, and therefore, a quarter was listed in the required notions. As a tribute to Jacob, I sewed in a coin that was minted in 2000, the year my Ilja was born.

I opted for the back modesty panel, not necessarily for the look, but for the functionality. Ultimately, I’m glad I made that choice.

With glam accessories, like rhinestone earrings and long white gloves, I felt like a regal queen. But it was the carnation corsage, slipped over my wrist, that made me feel complete.

The King and I… ready to party !

The crowning of each and every King and Queen kicks off the celebration…

…while walking the red carpet is the highlight for all. The cheers and applause from the “paparazzi” never ceases to bring tears to my eyes.

After months of practicing in the car, we were finally able to sing our karaoke duet, “Don’t Go Breaking My Heart” by Elton John with Kiki Dee. Should we take our act on the road ? Maybe !

Sorting through the various props available, it was time to take our picture at the photo booth. I always remind Jacob to be disciplined in saving and investing his money so he can become a богатый американец (bogatiy amerikanets ─ rich American).

Of course, the first question my mother asked me when I came home at the end of the evening was, “Did you get a picture with Tim Tebow ?!” As it so happens, my mother and I have a standing agreement that I am to call her immediately if Tim Tebow makes an appearance at our local Night to Shine. So far, no phone call has been made. But there’s always next year !

Jacob loves to dance…

…and so do I.

Since God answered my prayer for a friend from Russia in the form of Jacob, I have become increasingly active in the special needs community, which has been an unexpected delight in my life. Sharing the love of Christ with those who need it most brings me a radiant joy, especially in the role of a Buddy to my own very special King.

And now… what will I wear to Night to Shine 2026 ?

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

P.S. I can’t forget about the official video ! Can you spot Jacob and me ?
https://fb.watch/xGcSPYu_ke/

All I Want For Christmas is a Red Santa Dress

Ever since I was a little girl, I always dreamed of having a “Santa” dress. The rich red velvet and white fur trim around the neck, cuffs, and hem would give me festive feelings of delight. Watching the classic film, “White Christmas”, would heighten this desire every year.

Vera-Ellen, Danny Kaye, Rosemary Clooney, and Bing Crosby in “White Christmas”, 1954

Despite my intentions, the hectic holiday season would always get in the way of my December dream. However, when I was approached to give a program to a retiree group highlighting the Christmas songs of the ages, I knew my time had come. The premise of the program was for me to wear an era-specific costume to match a song that was to be played after I modeled its corresponding outfit. The audience, in turn, had to guess when the song/carol was originally written based on my costume. For the 1990s, Mariah Carey’s “All I Want For Christmas Is You” was on the list.

Mariah Carey in the “All I Want For Christmas Is You” music video, 1994

Hooray ! The Christmas program gave me a fitting excuse to create my Santa dress. While the task seemed simple, it certainly had its challenges. I can’t count how many mock-ups I sewed of different bodice patterns, only to have them be too tight when sewn up in the desired stretch velvet. What was wrong ? Almost giving up, I tried one last pattern.

The Tessa Sheath Dress from Love Notions Patterns popped into my e-mail inbox one Friday as part of the company’s Feature Friday. For $5, I thought I would give it a try.
My first mock-up was promising and when I added length to the bodice, it was perfect. Because I knew I was going to attach a circle skirt to the waist seam, I didn’t bother printing the rest of the PDF pattern. Once sewn together, I measured the circumference of the waist seam and used Mood Fabric’s Circle Skirt Calculator to map out my radius and fabric lay. The calculator worked its magic and gave me one circular piece of velvet, with no back seam to sew.
Fluffy faux fur purchased from Amazon was sewn/glued to the appropriate places and… that was it ! I finally had my Santa dress.

This dress is so much fun ! I have worn it constantly over the season and love giving its skirt a twirl.

One of my favorite features of the dress is its red stretch velour, which hangs heavy in its drape.

Just look at those folds !!

Merry Christmas !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

At the Hop

Although it may seem unfathomable, in all my years of costuming I have never dressed in the fashion of the poodle skirt from the 1950’s. The iconic getup has never been one of my Halloween costumes, nor worn as an outfit to an opera. Frankly, no opportunities had ever presented themselves !
Last year when my friend, Jacob, raved about his time at a fundraiser for Silly Sock Saturdays, I knew I wanted to go the following year. Since the theme for the charity event was a 1950’s sock hop, my opportunity for soda shop bop had undoubtedly arrived.

Without hesitation, I turned to Folkwear for my pattern. I already owned the 256 At The Hop pattern, which I purchased during an e-mail flash sale to add to my burgeoning pattern collection. It seemed frivolous at the time, but I knew I would have a use for it… someday.

256 At The Hop / Folkwear Patterns

Keeping with tradition, I used a charcoal wool blend felt for the skirt, which I ordered from Fabric Wholesale Direct. Recently, FWD began a matching thread and zipper service, which made choosing complementary notions much less of a chore. The full circle skirt was sewn in a professional manner with its lapped zipper application.

Matching thread and zipper for the charcoal wool blend felt

What’s a poodle skirt without its playful canine ? I used pink and white felt for the main construction of the appliqué and then hand embroidered its outline with a stem stitch.

Fitting the blouse was more of a challenge. Previously, I had sewn a wearable muslin of the Peter Pan collared blouse included in the pattern envelope. While it seemed to fit from the front, a test of simple arm movements proved the blouse to be very constricting and an impossibility for dancing. In need of assistance, I reached out to Katrina Walker, one of my fit teachers. A broad back adjustment was applied to the paper pattern as was a full bust adjustment. After raising the armhole slightly, my new blouse was much improved. Thank you, Katrina !

A consignment cardigan, saddle shoes, pink poodle bobby sox, and a polka dot chiffon hair tie made my outfit complete. Don’t forget about the cat eye glasses ! They were given to me as a birthday gift years ago. Thank you, Aunt Countess !

Miss Poodle was ready for the hop. But what about my friend ? Still thinking of the variety and versatility of Folkwear’s vintage patterns, I recalled their 251 Varsity Jacket pattern and realized it would be perfect for Jacob.

251 Varsity Jacket / Folkwear Patterns

After taking his initial measurements, I embarked through my usual fitting processes and altered the pattern to suit his needs. Particularly, it was imperative to widen the neck and shorten the sleeves of the pattern. For ease of wear and care, I chose a soft and spongy Ponte knit for the body and sleeves of the jacket. Stay tapes and PerfectFuse interfacing added stability to the welt pockets and facings. A tip for sewists: don’t skip this step ! It will elevate your garments from amateur to professional in a jiffy.

Sewkeys-E Knit Stay Tape fused to the pocket openings and welts

My model was a perfect participant. Jacob would curiously ask me questions as to my experience with working with models whereupon I had to gently let him down that he was not my first model to fit. However, his face beamed like the sun reemerging from the cover of the clouds when I told him a secret: he was my first male model to fit.
With supportive topstitching, striped ribbing, a fully lined interior, a machine appliquéd J, and silver snaps, the jacket was ready…

…and so were we !

My mother gave Jacob a ballpoint pen “tattoo” on his arm, just like all the greasers of the 50’s. He said it kind of tickled and was “a little relaxing.”

The fundraiser was a tremendous success ! Donations for socks and goodies were abundant and the music that played was hopping.

Rock around the clock !

In between root beer floats, a generous candy bar, photo booth, cotton candy station, and a barbeque buffet dinner, Jacob and I danced the time away while wearing his mother’s high school and college class rings. How neat is that ?!

Excitedly, we cheered at the end of the evening when we won two of the raffle prizes: trips to Top Golf and the Titanic Exhibit. Whoo hoo !

A thank you goes to the sponsors who made the event possible and for the benefactress who graciously invited me to sit at her table. Thank you, Mrs. Baker !

Whether attending a sock hop or just for confectionary fun, I highly recommend Folkwear’s vintage patterns for their authentic appeal and cultural connection. See you at the Hop !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

From Publix to Prom: Night to Shine 2024

Sometimes, the best things in life come when you least expect them. My life took a drastic detour in late 2022 when I made the decision to apply for a part-time job at Publix, a premier supermarket chain in the southeastern United States. I was scared to death. Having never worked outside the home, I didn’t know what I was getting myself into, but in early 2023, I was hired and soon garnered fame among my customers and co-workers as the perpetually upbeat cashier.

At my register with all my quirky necessities: medical gloves, blue light blocking glasses, and an endless supply of water (Photo courtesy of Merissa Green)

Trademark to Publix is their carryout service, a job performed by our front service clerks, better known as baggers. And this is where my tale begins ! It was at Publix that I became acquainted with Jacob, the bagger with special needs who had a penchant for people’s clothing, tattoos, and painted nails. He would make me laugh to the point that my face felt like it had been permanently stretched as he effusively complimented the throngs of customers on their ordinary outfits and unabashedly inquired if their sprawling tattoos had given them any pain. For every Publix customer story that I would bring home from work, there would be just as many “Jacob” stories to tell my family.

Six weeks into my job, I discovered that I knew Jacob’s mother from P.E.O., which left me stunned. But that wasn’t all─ a week later I received an even bigger bombshell: Jacob was from Russia. Ever since I began teaching myself Russian in late 2015, I had prayed for God to send me a friend from Russia in His perfect timing. Apparently, my prayer had been answered.

The revelation rocked my world. Jacob was adopted from Russia at 18 months old with the given name of Ilja, which was retained as his middle name. Instantaneously, we became the best of friends, spending time together whenever possible. It is with utmost endearment that I call him my Ilja and in turn, he calls me his Masha.

Masha and the Bear: Jacob and Mary Martha

When I heard about Night to Shine, the special needs prom sponsored by the Tim Tebow Foundation, I begged Jacob to take me. Because I was homeschooled in high school, I never had the opportunity to attend prom. And so, at 30 years old, I attended my first prom as a Buddy.

Imagine my surprise when Jacob presented me with a live flower corsage. It was beautiful ! And for those wondering, I still have that corsage.

Wearing the dress I had sewn for Lohengrin, I further accentuated the sparkling shoulders by adding a thin rhinestone belt.

After my King was crowned (I was not permitted to wear a crown as a Buddy), we walked the red carpet in a wave of celebration put on by the paparazzi.

The atmosphere was incredible ! I was so impressed by the efforts of the volunteers to make the event special for everyone. We ate a boxed meal, cheered as the rest of the guests paraded in, and then made our way to the next destination: the photo booths.

Decorating the draped tables nearby were a menagerie of props and accessories to liven up the photo strips that were printed on the spot. Jacob and I had lots of fun choosing our props and poses.

Of course, we had to take a picture with cardboard Tim Tebow. Like every other mom in America, my mother always wanted me to marry the star athlete.

Karaoke came next. Jacob made everyone cry when he sang “I Can Only Imagine” by MercyMe. Then, we both took to the microphones to belt out Taylor Swift’s “Shake It Off” with choreographed dance moves. What a blast !

We danced the YMCA…

…joined the Conga line…

…and played the air guitar.

I loved being on the arm of someone so sweet.

Night to Shine was one of the most magical experiences of my life. Not only did it exceed my expectations of what prom would be like, but the impact that it had on the kings and queens was truly awesome. A big ‘thank you’ goes to the countless volunteers who made the evening such a success.

As thus, my tale has come to its dreamy end. The moral of the story is, be careful what you pray for; you might find yourself wrapped in a joy beyond compare.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

P.S. There’s a video !! Watch to see the action unfold in real time.
https://fb.watch/sDsOug4JHm/

Mexican Folkwear Embroidery

Handmade garments are revered for their artisanal craftsmanship, intricacy, and devotion of time. While I’ve always admired the work of embroiderers and weavers, I never thought of myself as someone who could accomplish the same level of quality as these masters. However, that didn’t stop me from trying ! In one of the monthly newsletter e-mails from Folkwear Patterns, I noticed an advertisement for an online embroidery class featuring their 142 Old Mexico Dress.

142 Old Mexico Dress / Folkwear Patterns

That blue cotton dress with its bright pops of colorful embroidery had me salivating ! But I know my limits and decided not to let my spirited ambition take hold of my sewing caprices. Instead, I settled for the shorter blouse length, which was equally as beguiling.

Sarah Pedlow of ThreadWritten presented a detailed Zoom class filled with the history of Mexican embroidery and a guide to stitching the charming floral and foliage patterns. I found her calm nature relaxing and came away feeling confident that I could stitch like a seasoned professional. Although it took me almost a year to finish the project, I was proud of my feat.

The front and back of the yoke piece before being attached to the bodice

And here is the finished garment…

Opie can never be without the spotlight

There was a little bit of puckering (especially on the back because it was my “practice” side), which can be chalked up to inexperience.

Wearing this blouse has been as delightful as was the stitching itself. In fact, I enjoyed the “slow sew” embroidery process so much that I signed up for another Folkwear/ThreadWritten collaboration: Ukrainian embroidery featuring the 116 Shirts of Russia & Ukraine pattern. Now that will be fun !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Glamour Girl

Folkwear Patterns is undisputedly my favorite pattern company. Their designs are well drafted, have just the right amount of ease, and I rarely have to make adjustments to my standard Medium size. Not only are the technical details solid, but the variety of vintage and folk styles make for a cultural experience. My latest foray with Folkwear was with the 233 Glamour Girl pattern, a 1940’s gown in three lengths.

233 Glamour Girl / Folkwear Patterns

Years elapsed before I finally purchased the pattern in May 2022. Another year passed before I actually sewed the pattern because I was waiting to find the perfect fabric for my creation. Just like the sample for the company, I wanted a deep navy blue crepe affixed with a standout lapel accent.

The original ankle length model for Folkwear Patterns

As with most of my dazzling fabric finds, I bought my Glamour Girl fabric from Julie’s Picks swatch club ─ a gorgeous cady stretch suiting that was ideal for my dress. Making up the pattern was easier than I expected, even with the double ruching on the sleeves and the front waist ties at the abdomen.

And the fit was spot on !

I chose to make the “contemporary” mid-calf length (my mother’s favorite) and took careful measures to finish my seams without using the serger for a more vintage approach.

Because I used a stretch material, I bypassed the side zipper altogether, which turned dressing into a matter of slipping the frock over my head.

I also raised the plunging V neck at the front by 1¼ inches since uncomfortable clothes are never in fashion for me. Shoulder pads and clever front pleats set off my grandmother’s pearl pin and other coordinating accessories.

Lauren Bacall, anyone ?

What I love most about this dress is its timeless versatility. Not only did I wear it to a late afternoon classical music concert, but I also donned it for a P.E.O. morning meeting. Both times proved to be in vogue.

At P.E.O., greeting members for the meeting

Next time you’re in the mood for a quality pattern with historical flair and cultural details, give Folkwear Patterns a try ! Your first won’t be your last.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Pearls and a “Perfect Fit” Blouse

I love pearls the way a bear loves honey. They’re classic, a Southern staple, and compliment almost any outfit. When I came across a particular swatch of stretch poplin shirting, replete with strings of pearls across a pale sky blue background, I knew I had to have some.

My intention with the pearl poplin was to finish my long-awaited “perfect” blouse from the fit and sew virtual class I took in September 2021 with Katrina Walker.

Unfinished projects irk me. Unfortunately, they happen all too often in my life. When I first began working on the “perfect” blouse in 2021, I had cut the pattern pieces out of inky black silk charmeuse. A lack of proper starching resulted in distorted facing pieces and collar points that had already been sewn and clipped before a detrimental flaw was noticed. The mistake was devastating and I relegated the project to File 13. Although my momentum was abated, I reasoned that a sturdier, easier-to-sew fabric (like poplin) would provide a confidence boost, just in case I one day decide to try my hand at a charmeuse blouse again.

My pattern pieces were already altered from when I took the class in 2021, which made for an expedited experience.

And after a relatively quick sew, my blouse was completed with pleasing results.

Fisheye darts at the front and back made for elegant shaping along the midsection…

…and ¾ sleeves added sophisticated flair.

With most store bought shirts, one of my biggest complaints is the pooling of fabric at the small of my back. Applying a swayback and full bottom adjustment on the paper pattern piece gave me a smooth backside. Hooray !

If there was one thing I would change, it would be to double up the pearl buttons down the front since I feel at times that my top button is an inch too low.

Thanks to the lessons of Katrina Walker and a forgiving fabric, I now have the confidence to sew fitted blouses with numerous darts. And the best part is… my pearls match ─ perfectly.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Pretty in Pink For “Barbie”

Typically, I don’t dress up for movies. However, after accepting the invitation to go see the newest “Barbie” movie with a friend, I found myself creatively stimulated by an inundating wave of online images, ranging from 1950’s style dresses to more ostentatious disco getups in the prettiest shades of pink, my favorite color. Awash with the idea of participating in a cultural phenomenon, I gave into temptation.

Margot Robbie in “Barbie” ─ Warner Brothers

It would be hypocrisy to say that I liked the movie. I absolutely loathed it ! On several occasions, I felt like walking out, but since I had paid to see the entire film, I stayed. Even the costumes were a bit of a letdown, not providing enough of a counterbalance to the cognizance that my mind was being both assaulted and liquified.
But enough of that ─ let’s move on to the clothes !

Part of what rendered my decision to dress up for the movie so effortless was the fact that I already had the fabric I needed on hand. Using an adorable pink and white stripe seersucker that had been given to me by a friend, I was in good shape to create something special ─ thank you, Miss Cindy ! One of my go-to pattern sites, Sewist.com, helped me design a 50’s inspired dress with a scoop neckline and six gore circle skirt.

After three separate muslin mock-ups, I felt the pattern had been suitably adjusted for style and comfort. Notably, I lowered the waistline seam over an inch, moved the straps inward so they wouldn’t fall off my shoulders, created a scoop neckline for the back, and adjusted the bust darts for a more pleasing angle. A fluffy petticoat and a nude pair of pumps bought off eBay completed my impromptu Barbie look.

Jewelry played a starring role in shadowing the iconic persona; I employed a mix of both real and costume pieces.

Have you ever had the back armholes gape on your sleeveless tops ? It could be that your shoulder blades are prominent, like mine. Adding a small dart at the back shoulder straps magically removed those pesky openings.

Despite the glitters and charms of my attire, Opie was not impressed.

While it was fun to dress up for a movie, I don’t think it will become a habit of mine. Opera is my passion and its intellect, complexity, and sophistication suit my norms and standards far more than the inane cinematographic “Barbie”. But at least I got a pretty dress out of it !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

My Costumes Were Featured in the P.E.O. Record

You read that right: my largest sewing project to date was recently featured in P.E.O.’s magazine, The Record ! Take a look at the published article below…

In a “behind the scenes” peek, I thought it would be interesting to share some parts of the process of how this gigantic endeavour came to life.

How It All Began

I conceived the idea when the timing was right. With the Met still closed in early 2021 and no operas for which to design costumes, I needed something to occupy my time and also wanted a new challenge of working with different body shapes and sizes. Could I accomplish this mammoth project ? I pondered. After searching for patterns and fabrics while tallying prices, I felt the goal was doable. My mind was made up, so I called my chapter’s president and treasurer to run my grand scheme by them. At the March business meeting, I pitched the idea to the entire chapter, complete with cost analysis sheets, lists of materials needed, and samples of prospective fabrics to be used. The response was a tsunami of yeses. My sisters were “game” for anything !

Pattern Selection

Researching the styles from 1869 was the first step in formulating my plan. From my experience with opera and historical costuming, I had plenty of resources for specialized pattern companies. Ultimately, I chose to use Black Snail Patterns for the bodice, Truly Victorian Patterns for the skirt, and Laughing Moon Patterns for the hoopskirts, bustle pads, and the chemisettes. Each pattern was selected based on its finished garment style and how well they could be adapted to suit the Founders’ official portraits.

The Undergarments

It was absolutely crucial to construct the supportive undergarments of the outfits first ! Without a well fitting hoopskirt and bustle pad, the skirts could not be measured correctly. In the spirit of thriftiness and the need to maintain a strict budget, I thought it would be ingenious to use polyethene plumber’s tubing for the hoops instead of real steel hooping. After all, I had seen blogs of people making hoopskirts out of hula hoops and similar items. But as you can tell, that didn’t work out.

Maybe for a topsy-turvy, whimsical costume, this curlicue tubing would have been a winner. But for my historical ensembles, I had to break with the budget and buy steel hooping… much better !

With everyone fitted to a comfortable size, we moved onto the skirts, which were much less tedious than threading steel boning through ribbon channels. In May, I gave a demonstration of the progress that had been made to my chapter sisters at one of our regular meetings.

The hoopskirts had not yet been outfitted with crinoline mesh so the tunnels of steel were visibly apparent.

The skirt even had a pocket on the right side !

The Bodices

The Black Snail bodice pattern was historically accurate. Too accurate. Designed with the corseted body in mind, I knew I would have to make alterations since I had promised my models that they would NOT have to wear a corset, but also for the sake of convenience. Who would want to fasten all those itty bitty buttons down the front when the need for speed in dressing (and undressing) was of utmost importance ? One of the first changes made was to close the bodices with Velcro at the front. But that was just the tip of the iceberg !

Lynne’s Alterations

Out of all my models, I had the most challenging time fitting Lynne, who played Ella Stewart. While the pattern fit perfectly at the waist and bust, I could not manage to close the bodice at the neck, no matter how I finagled with the seams. Anne, who portrayed Mary Allen and was my invaluable “sous sewer,” thought inserting a small gore at the center back seam would add enough length for the neckline to meet at the front.

Nope !

Together, we toyed with ideas of substitutions, but nothing seemed to work. Then I had a “lightbulb” moment: just recently, I had taken a virtual fit and sew blouse class with Katrina Walker and recalled how she demonstrated a sleeve alteration using the “slash and spread” method. Taking what I learned in class, I applied it to the upper front of Lynne’s bodice.

A preliminary fitting showed promise. I then carried over the same adjustments to the paper pattern…

…and almost cried from ecstatics when Lynne tried on the new bodice. It was a perfect fit. Thank you, Katrina !

Other embellishments were needed in order for Lynne’s outfit to look spiffy. Since Ella Stewart’s portrait showed contrasting green appliques at the clavicles, Anne and I decided to continue with the color blocking theme and added dark green bands at the skirt and sleeve hems and a decorative yoke piece at the back waist. Lynne’s costume was easily classified as “Most Unique.”

Covid Scare

There was a near catastrophe when my original Suela Pearson came down with Covid just one day before our rehearsal and three days before the actual Founders’ Day event ! With hurried hands, Anne and I went to work to completely alter the costume in order to fit the new model. Miraculously, our skills paid off and the new amended ensemble was completed in time. And the best part ? No one knew a thing !

Showtime !

In an ordeal that spanned 10 months and required over 120 yards of fabric, I was able to accomplish the magnanimous feat with the ready help of my chapter sisters. When all the hard work was achieved, our chapter performed its P.E.O. themed fashion show to the local reciprocity group, showcasing each of the seven Founders’ style based on their original portraits.
Written into the narrated script was an “underwear demo,” which was designed to allow the audience a glimpse into how a lady would have started her dressing routine during the time period. That task fell to me. Remember what I had promised my models ? NO CORSETS !!

After strolling around the room in my “underwear,” it was now time for the models to make their appearance… Without further explanation, here are our seven Founders !

Hattie Briggs

Alice Coffin

Ella Stewart

Suela Pearson

Franc Roads

Alice Bird

Mary Allen

Each costume was as unique as the model wearing it and we were all so proud to honor our Founders in such a special way.

Thank Yous

“Style From the Stile: A Tribute to 1869 Fashion and the Founding of the P.E.O. Sisterhood” was a monster success, both with the local chapters and beyond. Through social media postings and publications, the show found its way to international acclaim. But the project would never have been possible without the enthusiastic and steadfast support of my chapter sisters. Nearly every member had a part ─ from covering and hand sewing buttons, to help with backstage dressing and stage directing. And a special thanks goes to Anne, who cut out every single piece of fabric !

As sisters, we bonded through the trials and triumphs of the project and left an indelible mark on Founders’ Day history.

The P.E.O. Founders were remarkable women. The ladies of Chapter CD are quite the same.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha