Tag: 2023-2024

Madama Butterfly: East Meets West

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It is already known how Madama Butterfly played a significant role in my life. In 2016, I taught myself to sew as I was preparing for my first outing to Puccini’s immortal tragedy. Because of that climactic moment, I hold a great reverence and affection for the opera.

My first sewing project ever ─ an authentic kimono for Madama Butterfly ─ in 2016

This particular Live in HD Butterfly was probably the best iteration I’ve seen. Much of the weight of that statement is credited to Asmik Grigorian, the Lithuanian soprano with a vast voice, making her long-awaited Met debut. Although I didn’t feel she had the prettiest voice, her acting had me believing that I was Butterfly. When the character was scared, I was scared. During her moments of wild hope, my skin tingled. Vulnerability and despair coalesced into a perfect portrayal. Brava !

Lucas Meacham, Jonathan Tetelman, and Asmik Grigorian in Madama Butterfly / Metropolitan Opera

Japanese garments being the central focus of Madama Butterfly, my goal for my third time seeing the opera in theaters was to embrace a more modern, accessible approach to costuming by creating something that could be described as “East Meets West”. For this, I turned to Folkwear Patterns and their 129 Japanese Hapi and Haori pattern.

129 Japanese Hapi and Haori ─ Folkwear Patterns

While the authentic appeal of the lined haori attracted me, my practical reasoning knew that dealing with the hanging furisode sleeves would be a nuisance in the long run. The hapi it was !

Choosing the fabric was fun. At first, I looked for old bolts of kimono fabric on eBay, but wasn’t thrilled with the prices or inadequate yardage. Quilting cottons were suggested for the hapi so I checked around on my usual fabric sites. Searching through beautiful prints on Style Maker Fabrics, I found my fabric: a vibrant butterfly print on a teal background. Even more serendipitous, it was made in Japan !

To set off the busy material, I chose a diminutive turquoise cotton from my local quilt shop to serve as the neckband fabric. A striking contrast, don’t you think ?

Designed to be worn over western clothing, the hapi was a stylish topper over a persimmon colored camisole and wide-legged pants, the latter of which was sewn from a beige silk noil. So earthy, so luxe !
To make the pants, I used the Harlow Pajamas pattern, which I first sewed for the Kurzak/Alagna Met concert.

Wearing a cross necklace was indicative of Butterfly’s conversion to Christianity before her marriage to Pinkerton. Thank you, Faith !

Carefully, I threaded my handmade kanzashi hair stick (original to my 2016 outfit) into the chic geisha bun my mother styled for me. Why don’t we wear these more often ?!

Those straight cut, modest sleeves were not a problem at all !

And look at how cute this purse is ! Bought at Cracker Barrel, my mother gave it to me for Easter. Little did she know it would be flying off to Butterfly with me.

Now that the 2023-2024 Live in HD season has wrapped, I can breathe a bit and begin to work on projects for next season, which promises to be a delight. See you there !

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Cast and Credits:

Madama Butterfly ─ Giacomo Puccini (1904)
Live in HD air date: May 11, 2024

Cast:
Cio-Cio-San ─ Asmik Grigorian
Pinkerton ─ Jonathan Tetelman
Suzuki ─ Elizabeth DeShong
Sharpless ─ Lucas Meacham

Credits:
Conductor ─ Xian Zhang
Production ─ Anthony Minghella
Director and Choreographer ─ Carolyn Choa
Set Designer ─ Michael Levine
Costume Designer ─ Han Feng
Lighting Designer ─ Peter Mumford
Puppetry ─ Blind Summit Theatre
Revival Stage Director ─ Paula Williams
Live in HD Director ─ Gary Halvorson
Host ─ Anthony Roth Costanzo

La Rondine

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I was first introduced to Puccini’s operetta, La Rondine, as part of the Met’s free nightly streams during Covid. The stars were Angela Gheorghiu and Roberto Alagna. Notoriously, the performance marked one of their last engagements before their infamous divorce proceedings in 2009. Remembering how captivated I was by the glittering sets, jaw-dropping costumes, and the soapy heartache I endured as the final scene played out made my most recent trip to the theater a much anticipated one.

Roberto Alagna and Angela Gheorghiu in La Rondine / Metropolitan Opera (2009)

A due share of my attraction to La Rondine is the theme of true love over riches and fame. As a courtesan, the disguised Magda cannot forgive herself when Ruggero wishes to marry her at the end of the opera. She has deceived him about her identity and virtue and cannot continue her lie into marriage and motherhood. In the 2009 performance, the breakup ripped my heart out. But due to a lack of chemistry between the two leads in the 2024 revival, I missed out on the emotional catharsis I was so eagerly expecting. For an operetta whose entire success depends on the strength of chemistry between the leading lovers, I was left unmoved and unsatisfied.

Jonathan Tetelman as Ruggero and Angel Blue as Magda in La Rondine / Metropolitan Opera

Rondine represented an opportunity for me to sew an artsy dress from the 1920’s, which stoked my creativity like an open flame. Looking through different designs of patterns with geometric influences, I aimed to have something similar in my dress that would be appropriate for the Art Deco era. A vintage construct from Lekala fit the bill.

Lekala 1920’s dress pattern

What made this pattern one of interest were the simple, yet striking, details. Having previously struggled with bias cuts of fabric and worse, sewing blocks together at inverted angles, I was a bit intimidated to tackle another slippery nightmare. The sparse instructions didn’t help. However, I was wholly surprised to find that the pattern came together so quickly and so easily.

The pictures don’t do this fabric justice ! I used a rayon/nylon shimmer satin from designer Maggy London in a dusty grape/mauve color. As with most of my fabric purchases, I bought this beauty from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

Confession: I don’t always accurately estimate the amount of fabric I need for each project. Such was the case with this dress. Therefore, I had to piece the lower back portions together and finished the new back seam (and side seams) with French seams. Piecing is period correct, correct ?

My mother was proud of her hairstyle for this one and I loved it. So elegant !

In order to make my flapper headband, I went to Joann Fabrics and found some odds and ends that seemed suitable: black sequin elastic on clearance, a brooch for $3.50, and plumage in the floral section. Shockingly, the headband only took me 10 minutes to fashion and that includes warming up the hot glue gun.

What’s a lady of the house to do without her strings of pearls ?! Accessorizing with lustrous orbs can never be out of vogue.

It truly is a pity that the operetta seen in theaters was without its springing passion. While many denounce La Rondine as being far from Puccini’s best work, it is filled with splendid music that aches for the true, soul love wealth cannot bring.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Casts and Credits

La Rondine ─ Giacomo Puccini (1917)
Live in HD air date: April 20, 2024

Cast:
Magda ─ Angel Blue
Ruggero ─ Jonathan Tetelman
Lisette ─ Emily Pogorelc
Prunier ─ Bekhzod Davronov
Rambaldo ─ Alfred Walker

Credits:
Conductor ─ Speranza Scappucci
Production ─ Nicolas Joël
Set Designer ─ Ezio Frigerio
Costume Designer ─ Franca Squarciapino
Lighting Designer ─ Duane Schuler
Live in HD Director ─ Gary Halvorson
Host ─ Julia Bullock

Roméo et Juliette

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Often billed as “the world’s greatest love story,” there was no question whether or not I would see Roméo et Juliette, Gounod’s French iteration of the Shakespeare classic, when it came into the theaters. As the curtain rose to the sounds of a mighty orchestra and hallowed chorus, I couldn’t help but feel that this opera was going to be golden.

Benjamin Bernheim and Nadine Sierra in Roméo et Juliette / Metropolitan Opera

Much of the greatness in the performance came from the pairing of the leads. Nadine Sierra and Benjamin Bernheim were a seamless match as the tragic couple with the latter having a glib command of his native language. Their love passages dripped like honey and their easy chemistry was undeniable. It’s too bad that the Met’s satellites were plagued by inclement weather in NYC. The interruptions in the live transmission caused our local theater to miss the pivotal, romantic moments, like Juliette’s first look at Roméo and much of the wedding scene. What a pity !

The wedding scene from Roméo et Juliette / Metropolitan Opera

Bartlett Sher’s current production of Roméo et Juliette mostly keeps with tradition while adding extravagance and taking modest artistic liberties. Despite the production moving the story to the 18th century, I was set on creating something that was more in line with the Renaissance styles of the original “Romeo and Juliet” without becoming too fussy or historically accurate. Without searching for it, I stumbled across the perfect pattern on Etsy.

The lacy neckline of View B (center on the envelope) screamed out as my opera dress. Gold it had to be, not only because of the comparison to Juliette’s Act I gown in the Sher production, but also for its representation of sunny Verona.

Surprisingly, the pattern came together quickly and was a simple sew, but gosh, that waistline was high !

The sleeves were a standout feature of the gown with elasticated bands separating the upper puffs from the lower bells.

My mother took pride in styling my hair, twisting it into whimsical braids. I loved it !

While my mother enjoys living out her hairdresser aspirations in styling my hair for the opera, she’s not always enthused about my costume creations. In fact, she gave Juliette’s gold satin gown the kiss of death by saying that it ranked “up there with the Russian one.” The blunt remark caused me to burst into peals of laughter.

Although I wasn’t crazy about the unnaturally high waistline, this dress gave me all the feelings of a dreamy Renaissance maiden, just like Juliette.

And now, Opie’s ready for his close up ! Juliette had to have been a cat lover, right ?

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Cast and Credits:

Roméo et Juliette ─ Charles Gounod (1867)
Live in HD air date: March 23, 2024

Cast:
Juliette ─ Nadine Sierra
Roméo ─ Benjamin Bernheim
Stéphano ─ Samantha Hankey
Tybalt ─ Frederick Ballentine
Mercutio ─ Will Liverman
Frère Laurent ─ Alfred Walker

Credits:
Conductor ─ Yannick Nézet-Séguin
Production ─ Bartlett Sher
Set Designer ─ Michael Yeargan
Costume Designer ─ Catherine Zuber
Lighting Designer ─ Jennifer Tipton
Choreographer ─ Chase Brock
Fight Director ─ B.H. Barry
Live in HD Director ─ Gary Halvorson
Host ─ Ryan Speedo Green

Revved Up Carmen

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As a welcome reprieve from my hectic work life, I walked into the Met’s new Carmen with a mind weighted in skepticism while simultaneously struggling to maintain its openness. Modern productions are not my cup of tea. Revolting staging or not, one thing would be certain: the music would be terrific ! Here, I was delighted. Aigul Akhmetshina, the star out of nowhere, wowed me from the first note of her Habanera, albeit was marred by the hideous chain link fencing that first obscured her from view.

Aigul Akhmetshina in a scene from Carmen ─ Metropolitan Opera

I didn’t hate the new production, which was set in a southern Texas border town replete with cowboys and contraband, but it didn’t resonate with me the way that the directors would have hoped. Some parts felt conceivable, like Escamillo’s spin as a rodeo champion, while others were contrived. Instead of in a cigarette factory, the girls in Act I worked for a weapons manufacturer, wearing pink uniforms. That was lost on me.

Kyle Ketelsen as Escamillo / Metropolitan Opera
A scene from Act I of Carmen / Metropolitan Opera

I’ve already pontificated about how the Met’s new, modern direction has mostly converted costume designers into professional shoppers (seriously─ all the clothes I saw in Carmen could be bought from Amazon or Goodwill), but it does allow me to create ready to wear garments for my regular wardrobe… or use pieces from my closet ! All of the clothes that I wore for Carmen were either created for other events or bought years ago at a consignment shop. Since cars and trucks were a focal point in Carrie Cracknell’s production, what could be a better photo backdrop than the cars and trucks in my own driveway ?

I wore the pleather pants I had sewn for the 2021 Wagnerians concert and the red scalloped lace bolero that was to resemble Lucia‘s “blood” back in 2022. Both were equally suitable for an edgy, “revved up” Carmen.

A metallic cylinder necklace, which was used in my Queen of the Night outfit for Die Zauberflöte, coincidentally mirrored the tubular LED lights that represented fast-passing highway lights in the production. How cool is that ?!

A scene from Carmen / Metropolitan Opera

Despite my ignorance of vehicular matters (I don’t drive), I enjoyed the assembly of automobiles used in the opera. That red Jaguar was saucy !

Kyle Ketelsen as Escamillo / Metropolitan Opera

But I had to settle for a white Chevy pickup truck instead.

Although I was amused by the updated landscape of the new production, I missed the glamour and languid luxury of a more traditional, Sevillian setting. All of these contemporary productions are starting to look the same: chain link fences, barbed wire, Walmart clothes, freakish facial tattoos, the unbathed masses… Hopefully there will one day be a reversal of trends and a renewed appreciation for art as beauty. Opera is too fine to be smothered in exhaust fumes.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

Cast and Credits:

Carmen ─ Georges Bizet (1875)
Live in HD air date: January 27, 2024

Cast:
Carmen ─ Aigul Akhmetshina
Don José ─ Piotr Beczała
Micaëla ─ Angel Blue
Escamillo ─ Kyle Ketelsen

Credits:
Conductor ─ Daniele Rustioni
Production ─ Carrie Cracknell
Set Designer ─ Michael Levine
Costume Designer ─ Tom Scutt
Lighting Designer ─ Guy Hoare
Projection Designer ─ rocafilm/Roland Hovarth
Choreographer ─ Ann Yee
Live in HD Director ─ Gary Halvorson
Host ─ Matthew Polenzani