Sateen – Costume Closet Couture

Vintage dresses, with their timeless design and classic charm, are always on my radar for potential projects. In recent years, there have been numerous independent sewing pattern companies that have sprouted forth with vintage-inspired designs. One of the earliest pioneers of this specialized category is Sew Over It Patterns, based in the UK.
While I have been an admirer of the pattern company for years, I had never bought one of their patterns. However, this changed when I took the plunge and purchased their iconic Betty dress (and additional Add-On Pack) while it was on sale.

Inspired by the early 1960’s and the TV series, “Mad Men”, the Betty dress was right up my alley: the stately bateau neckline, fitted bodice, and a full circle skirt made for twirling on the dance floor. I was ready to sew !
Coinciding with my new project was a series of videos produced by the team at Sew Over It, showcasing the fitting steps and how versatile the simple dress could be.

Watching the videos, along with reading several blog posts and sewing a plethora of mock-ups, helped me achieve a near perfect fit on a bodice block that was far from my measurements and bone structure. My first dress was made out of a stretch cotton sateen bottomweight in a vibrant floral print. Its first public appearance was at the Florida State P.E.O. Convention during the Friday night social and helped me to feel like a butterfly, flitting around the dance floor in that voluminous skirt.

With the success of my first Betty dress, I wanted to make another one, but this time, modify the neckline using the Add-On Pack. I opted for the V-neck version.

A wild foliage print on a cotton/polyester stretch shirting made for a delightful summer dress, especially when paired with a linen button down shirt as a cool topper.

Sew Over It Betty Dress (V-neck, sleeveless) styled with Pattern Emporium’s All In Shirt

There were now two Betty dresses in my closet, but I still craved more. It was time for a solid frock (and a fancy one, too), I thought. A fall wedding on my calendar was just the excuse I needed to make my desired design.

With the wedding being a semi-formal affair, I extended the skirt to a midi length and used the scoop neck template from the Add-On Pack. Can you guess where I spent most of the evening ?!

As you can tell, the Betty dress easily transitions from a casual daytime look to chic evening attire. And, if you sew like I do, it could become a versatile closet staple and your next sewing addiction.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

I was touched ─ I really was ─ when I was invited with a handful of others to a private concert being given at the clubhouse of a quaint little neighborhood community nearby. While different from my usual opera outings, I figured it would be a welcome change to expand my musical horizons. And for $15, it was a fair deal.
Consisting of a husband and wife duo, Acoustic Eidolon blends classicism with the folkloric adding a healthy smattering of rousing blues and lyric verses. Hannah, with her “chocolate” cello, played with both tenderness and gusto while at times accompanying the pieces with her angelic voice ─ sometimes in French. Hypnotic and melodic, she could justly be described as a siren without the impending danger.
Joe, simultaneously picking and strumming his inventive “guitjo” (a double-necked guitar with banjo capabilities), was the pragmatist ─ the frank one ─ of the two. Often times he would provide the punch line at the culmination of one of Hannah’s soulful stories such as the time when her cello was severely damaged during airport baggage handling. “United [Airlines],” Joe sneered with mock surprise. “But you probably knew that before I said it.” Snickers bubbled from the audience.
Their set list was unique. Joining covers of Simon and Garfunkel’s eerie “The Sound of Silence” and Queen’s stupendous “Bohemian Rhapsody” (their “opera piece”, Joe claimed) were original compositions from the couple’s various albums over the years including some with global flavors. In particular, my favorite of these was “One Ol’ Wreck”, a bustling bluesy tribute to Joe’s love of cars complete with Hannah’s uncannily realistic “honks” manufactured by the skill of her bow. It had my skinny stiletto tapping in time on the floor. Vroom, vroom !

Any event, no matter how small or informal, is an excuse to dress up for me. And that’s just what I did. During my opera off-season the previous year, I had made a handkerchief hem skirt using Vogue 7766.

Initially, I intended to use this pattern for my Valkyrie skirt, but aborted the idea in favor of an alternative approach. While the plan was jettisoned, the pattern was not and I was elated to have a chance to put it to good use, proudly outfitted in a bold striped sateen from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It mingled well as a dressier look: sheer gloves, glitter stilettos, and my mother’s classic Robert Scott sweater from the 70’s/80’s all coordinated in a chic statement.

Meeting Hannah and Joe after the concert was a treat ! They were personable and Hannah especially remarked on how much she appreciated my effort and style in fashion: “When I saw you walk into the room, I said to myself, ‘Now there’s a woman after my own heart ─ the shoes, the skirt, the gloves, the matching purse… !'” How could I not blush ? I was flattered.

Toi, Toi, Toi,

Mary Martha

For more information about Acoustic Eidolon, please visit their website !

Event: Acoustic Eidolon concert
Date: February 16, 2020

Tag: Sateen

A Betty Dress For Every Occasion

Acoustic Eidolon